Generous portions, campy digs

Buca di Beppo

8580 State Highway 121
Frisco, TX 75034
(972) 668-3287

After spotting this neighbor of previously reviewed Chaucer’s in Frisco, I looked forward to checking out this spot for what I hoped would be hearty Italian fare. My wish came through when the in-laws celebrated 2 birthday parties at this particular location.

Walking into this Buca was an exercise in tolerance…you’re shuttled down narrow hallways and paths adorned with an overabundance of photos and collectibles. Is there such thing as too much decor? Buca wins this contest hands down.

Our party of 11 adults and 2 toddlers found seating in the Pope’s Room, a circular, nearly claustrophobic room adorned with photos and paintings of popes past and present. Indeed, a plastic bust of the Patriarch graced the lazy susan at our round table. While the decor might have detracted, the acoustics and cozy surroundings made for easy socializing.

Onto the menu which was printed on our paper placemats. Buca servings come in two sizes: small and large. The small guarantees portions good for sharing with 2-4 people. The large portions require an army, 6-8 people.

We started with an order of garlic bread with mozzarella and fried calamari. The calamari didn’t impress, the breading tasted bland and formulaic. But the pizza-shaped garlic bread came out smothered with cheese and real garlic slices. If I could have ordered more garlic on them, I would’ve been in heaven. It disappeared so fast, we had to order another serving.

Turns out Buca just recently changed the menu, as my mother-in-law was disappointed to find they had struck off her fave salad. But I enjoyed the Apple Gorgonzola insalate with heaping chunks of gorgonzola, and plenty of apple slices and dried cranberries. The dressing turned out mild, so it didn’t shock you like most Italian dressings. A Caesar salad for two also arrived at the table, but I didn’t get a chance to try it. I imagine it was closer to authentic, seeing anchovies listed on the menu…and the father-in-law was very picky when it came to his Caesars.

The plates piled high on the lazy susan as the entrees came. Stuffed shells, Macaroni Rosa for 6, Spaghetti with two fist-sized meatballs, and Fettuccine Supremo. An enormous platter of lasagna arrived, dwarfing all the other plates. I personally ordered a single serving of Grilled Salmon with Pesto, while Granpoppy ordered Chicken with Lemon.

Dear Hubby gave the Macaroni Rosa a thumbs-down, as indeed, it was too challenging for a macaroni-purist like him. But for those who like a different mac-n-cheese, this version came loaded with broccoli and chicken and a nice creamy tomato sauce. Good eating for those days you just want a change of pace. I did hear that their kids’ menu mac-n-cheese was more traditional and simply delicious.

The Stuffed Shells had excellent spicy bite, had I room for it after devouring my salmon plate. I really still don’t like pesto with salmon, but that Italian Broccoli Romano was too addicting to pass up. Glad they ordered a side of it.

Speaking of sides, my best bud commented on the garlic potatoes, saying it was all butter and garlic with a touch of potato. I had to agree. Yum!

After too much salad and garlic bread, I regretted not having enough room to try out the spaghetti and the fettuccine, but everyone seemed pleased with the order, so I assumed the food was good.

Since it was a birthday crowd, our party brought our own cakes, which the staff was kind enough to serve to us, complete with candles and song.

On the way out, we noticed a dining booth in the kitchen area, for those folks who would like to be closer to the smells and sights of Italian food cooking.

We had a mishap during all this: Granpoppy’s food didn’t get served until 2/3rds through the meal. Not a good thing, since it was his birthday we were celbrating. Our server was very apologetic, and the manager came out to make amends. An A for effort.

If you’re looking for giant portions and dependable Italian fare, seeking a massive heart attack from carb overload, then Buca is a great place for your family dining experience.

My rating: 3.0 stars
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